There is a song written in Hangeul (the Korean alphabet) vividly describing the cityscape of the capital Seoul in the late Joseon period as an affluent place full of things to see. The song “Hanyangga” (Song of Hanyang) composed by Hansangeosa in 1844 depicts a wide variety of scenes. They include the royal palace, which was considered the king’s space, Yukjo street along which government offices were located, a boisterous market overflowing with products made in Korea and other countries, seungjeonnoreum (a festivity led by the royal attendant called byeolgam) in which musicians performed while gisaeng (female entertainers) sang and danced), a king’s procession to the royal tombs, and the state examination being held at the royal palace. “Hanyangga” reflects its author’s affection for and pride in the capital Hanyang and his wishes for peace and prosperity for the country. It helped the Koreans of the time to better understand the capital city.

This special exhibition is the first to explore “Hanyangga” with a special focus on its use of Hangeul. The exhibition hall has been set up to allow visitors to stroll through several spaces described in “Hanyangga” and vividly experience the city in the late Joseon period. Moreover, it allows them to listen to the stories related by “Hanyangga.” The exhibition also helps visitors learn about old Korean words that show the life and culture of their time, including diverse professional titles and product names.

It is hoped that this exhibition will offer an opportunity to enjoy some shining moments in Hanyang conveyed by this song in Hangeul and contemplate Seoul’s history related in the Korean language.

Hanyang was the country’s capital and the residence of the king, but it was also home to numerous people as they went about their daily lives. It was a popular destination for people from other regions since it was equipped with important national facilities and was a thriving city where goods from the eight provinces of Korea and other countries could be found.

Koreans of the past often wrote about and painted the capital Hanyang. They sang about the beautiful scenery to be found at famous spots around the city, described it as the space where they made their living, and recorded its history, scenes, and customs.

There are various songs in Hangeul about the capital Seoul, ranging from Goryeo gayo (Goryeo songs) to gyeonggichega (gyeonggi-style songs) of the early Joseon period and poems and gasa (lyric verses) of the late Joseon period. Particularly, “Hanyangga” (Song of Hanyang) (1844) composed by Hansangeosa is the first Korean literary work that focuses purely on the city of Hanyang.

Providing a vivid portrayal of Seoul, “Hanyangga” became an important guide for people who had not visited the city as they sought to understand it. This work full of affection for and pride in the capital was first published commercially in 1880, allowing it a broader readership.

The dynamic streets of Hanyang during the late Joseon period were overflowing with all sorts of things to see. I first went to a royal palace and took a stroll while looking at the beautiful buildings and ponds. I peeked into a royal audience hall in which His majesty administers the affairs of state. I also saw the clothes worn by the court ladies, palace maids, the royal attendant (byeolgam), military officials, and others who worked in the palace and observed officials from different departments busy working in and outside of the palace.

At the market, I stopped by several shops selling various objects from the eight provinces of Korea and other countries. I was surprised by the splendor and clamor of the market. Moreover, I visited several renowned scenic spots and came across many festivities. I also caught a glimpse of seungjeonnoreum, which is considered to be the most flamboyant festivity.

I tagged along with the king’s procession to the royal tombs since it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see His Majesty. I absent-mindedly stared at the fascinating sight of the royal procession crossing the river on a pontoon bridge under the command of a general. Hearing that His Majesty was directly officiating the state examination at Chundangdae Platform after returning from his visit to the royal tombs, I became curious to see how the exam was held and spend a day watching it. I consider this a successful sightseeing trip to Hanyang.

Excerpted from “Hanyangga” (Song of Hanyang) by Hansangeosa in 1844

In the mid-nineteenth century, the winds of change had begun to blow in Seoul. After Korea opened its ports to foreign countries, Seoul was no longer a city confined to Koreans. It transformed into a city in which the traditions of the Joseon Dynasty and Western modernity coexisted.

In his book Saminpilji (Geographical Gazetteer of the World) (1889), Homer B. Hulbert (1863–1949) introduced Seoul among many other international cities. In 1896, the Hakbu (Ministry of Education) published a world map in Hangeul. Textbooks for elementary school students discussed Seoul from a broader perspective. Many books were published exploring Seoul from the perspective of visiting Westerners, and there were other books that introduced Seoul as a travel destination.

After Japan deprived Korea of its sovereignty in 1910, a person named SagongSu wrote Hanyang Obaeknyeonga (The Song of 500-year-old Hanyang) (1913) to express his frustration and remorse for the divestiture of the country and a longing for independence. Some women living in the provinces traveled to Seoul, which had become more easily accessible with the development of transportation like trains and streetcars, and wrote travelogues.

After the Japanese occupation came to an end, Korea celebrated its liberation, suffered through the Korean War, and underwent rapid industrialization. Seoul made transformative leaps over this process. By hosting the 1988 Seoul Olympics and the 2002 FIFA World Cup, the capital showed its potential as an international city. Today, South Korea is wielding influence as a cultural powerhouse through K-pop music, dramas, and movies, and Seoul is recognized as a city that many people seek to visit.